Page 28 of Southeast Asia by Audley Travel

sunset at yeak loam crater lake northeast cambodia northeastern cambodia has only recently opened up to visitors with the introduction of an airstrip for flights from phnom penh the area feels tangibly remote as you drive on red-dirt roads through wild scrub plantations of rubber cashew and pepper and verdant forest waterfalls are numerous and the stunning crater lake of boeng yeak loam said to be the home of mystical water spirits is surely one of the most scenic and beautiful places in the country ban lung as the provincial capital of ratanakiri ban lung makes an excellent base from which to explore the many areas of interest in the province ban lung has a feel of the `wild east about it with its red dirt roads scooters used instead of horses and one main street the town can easily be reached by a short flight from phnom penh or by a longer bumpy road journey for those travelling to or from laos the journey can be made by road and an exhilarating boat ride across the border ratanakiri in the far northeast of the country lies the province of ratanakiri during the 1960s ratanakiri was the base for the khmer rouge and where pol pot spent much of his time rarely visited this remote region is rich in natural beauty with cascading waterfalls and rivers traversing the lush forests the crystal clear waters of boeng yeak loam crater lake near ban lung make for a refreshing dip and at sunset the sky is ablaze with colour take a river journey up the ton le san to the hidden kreung villages famous for their traditional cemeteries complete with carved effigies and unique burial rituals the stilted male and female huts found here give you a glimpse of the fascinating courting practices of the tribe laotian and chinese communities can also be found in the area along with many minority tribes making the region a melting pot of cultures terres rouge ban lung this beautiful guesthouse was once a former governor s residence and is without doubt the most charming in the north of cambodia infused with gallic charm terres rouge is a wonderful blend of dark wood local textile wall hangings and sculptures the rooms in the main house are fan-cooled whilst the newer bungalows are airconditioned each is uniquely decorated giving a sense of stepping back to a time of head hunters and explorers the first floor veranda offers a relaxing lounge area for unwinding after a day of exploration and with its wonderful views over boeng kansaign lake is the perfect place to watch the sunset with a cool drink the restaurant has an extensive menu and offers a fine blend of cambodian and french cuisine set away from the main road this delightful guesthouse is a tranquil place to stay amongst lush tropical gardens overlooking the lake terres rouge karchuen village burial ground 28

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