Page 29 of Model Boat Kits by Model Slipway

inner bulwarks the glassfibre of the inner bulwarks of some models require smoothing out to give a good finish the way to do this is using elastic plastic padding and finger to spread the stuff around but beware some people may get an allergic reaction to the resin in which case take the precaution of wearing surgical gloves this filler needs to be thoroughly set 2-3 days before sanding smooth using 80 grade production paper then 320 grade wet and dry for the final finish waterline to determine the correct waterline mark it off at the bow and stern from the plans sitting the hull on the stand mount a pencil to a block of appropriate height and draw the waterline lightly by sliding the block round the hull glazing clear plastic material for cutting out the various panels required to glaze the wheelhouse and portlights can be cut exactly like plastic styrene although it is much more resistant to scratches glue in place with weldbond rc modeller s craft glue or clear contact adhesive uhu bostik etc after painting the model the glue used by aircraft modellers to attach the clear canopies to the fuselage will do the job it comes under several brand names it is a pva type glue which goes on white but dries clear note the glazing sheet has a protective film on each side remove only from one side for gluing them remove film from the other side when finished white metal fittings the majority of the fittings are white metal due to the manufacturing process these will require a little cleaning up clean up any flash or mould lines using fine files or fine sandpaper surfaces which are to be flat should either be filed or rubbed across a sheet of wet and dry paper glued to a surface use a contact adhesive apply a coat of primer or matt white paint before final painting spraying and painting small fittings like railings and vents can be a bit of a trial drill a piece of flat wood at intervals to take the parts then cover in double-sided sticky tape push the parts into place to be held firm by both tape and hole you can then spray away to your hearts content and they will stay put photo etched brass use a sharp modelling knife/wire cutter/scalpel to separate the components ensuring this is done on a firm surface snip through the tags and clean up the tag scars by holding the part in pliers and using a fine file or sandpaper p400 or even finer if a part has to be folded support up to the line of fold and fold in one go holding the part in pliers and using the blade of a screwdriver to fold for assembly use thick superglue uhu araldite on a grease free surface brass is ideal for soldering apply a coat of primer or matt white paint before the final paint model name and flags waterslide transfers locate the position of the transfer on the model and apply it only to a gloss finish either paint or gloss varnish a patch soak each transfer in tepid water for about 30 seconds until the backing paper starts to get saturated do not allow it to float off wet the area where the transfer is to go slide it into place and dab down flat and dry with a soft cloth when thoroughly dry paint over with clear satin varnish vinyl lettering and model flags are available from becc at www.modelflags.com or from model shops in the uk paints our colour schemes show the humbrol enamels reference numbers however the paints used on our prototype models were acrylic aerosols available from car accessories shops e.g halfords in the uk for the large assemblies and humbrol or tamiya enamels for the smaller areas and details any good red oxide aerosol primer is ideal for spraying the hull below the waterline the one golden rule is not to paint cellulose over enamel paints as this will leave the surface crazed.

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