Wild Cam book 2011 by Wild Country Climbing Equipment

More catalogs by Wild Country Climbing Equipment | Wild Cam book 2011 | 32 pages | 2011-10-28

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Wild Cam book 2011 is listed under these categories

Sporting Goods > Climbing

Featured catalog pages of Wild Cam book 2011

first 5.11 new dimensions which was the first all nut ascent clean `pin free climbing was introduced to america by yvon chouinard in the 60 s and as ray pushed the grades ever higher the need for a new fast method to protect his ambitious projects became obvious the friend was born ray had begun to work on his first prototype friend in 1971 and during the following five years both his climbing career and friend development accelerated at an extraordinary pace during 1976 and 1977 ray s investment in climbing was paying off even though his other passion friends had yet to become a commercial reality his success on routes like crimson cringe 5.12 hangdog flyer 5.12c separate reality 5.12 owl roof 5.12c rostrum 5.12c and the first 5.13 in the valley phoenix were not only due to his outstanding climbing ability but undoubtedly the success of his early prototype friends during the summer of 1972 ray had met and climbed with fellow instructor and future business partner mark vallance at

development with a little help from my friends starting a new business is like having one hundred feet of rope out no runners and 5.10 move in front of you and it can feel like that for weeks on end i prepared to jump the weather was perfect clear sky hard frost and a scattering of snow the camera team was in position and waiting the `radio mike was turned on and recording i climbed past the top friend got my feet above it climbed a little higher ­ `hell i ll give them a real show ­ and climbed a little higher still then i jumped as the rope tightened my belayer was jerked upwards and i felt my breath being knocked out of me i was lowered to the ground ­ no need for a `retake the five minute episode on the bbc s tomorrow s world programme was aired at the end of january 1978 and a six year secret was out of the bag it was 1972 when i first met ray jardine in colorado i was on my way back from antarctica we were both working for outward bound and between courses climbed together

new products appear from time to time that make routes easier and sometimes people claim these advances warrant grade revisions after testing zeros i know these claims are for real zeros will do much more than we can yet imagine speed times will shrink and grades really will need adjustment these are the indispensible granite tools for the 21st century kevin thaw zeros the smallest cams in the world size new zeros take cam sizes smaller than has ever been possible six sizes start at a minuscule 0.22 5.5mm this ultra-small cam dimension is achieved by using a new compact patent pending direct loading axletm which amalgamates termination and axle into one unit allowing the cams to operate without the hindrance of bulky conventional assembly flexibility new technology was developed to provide climbers with total stem flexibility and complete control this was achieved with a new patent pending flexistemtm system which overlays the wire rope stem this allows flexibility up to the base

above z1 and z2 are shown at actual size zeros are different because zero cams are different it is vitally important that you read and understand the instructions supplied with each cam not all sizes of zero cams comply with en12276 and are therefore classed as progression equipment progression equipment must only be used for direct aid this means it must only be subjected to static loads not exceeding the strength as marked on the device see specification chart for complete details zero cams may be damaged in a fall or in the case of progression equipment the axle may bend when weighted with a static load approaching the rated strength and consequently should always be examined before re-use if your zero cam exhibits signs of wear defect or bending or if there is any doubt about its serviceability replace it it is recommended that any equipment involved in a serious fall or weighted sufficiently to cause bending of the axle in the case of progression equipment should be replaced

2 1 3 4 10 5 5 12 9 6 11 8 7 >1 cnc machined cams with integral cam stops made from 7075 aircraft quality aluminium nickel chrome molybdenun steel axle 85tpsi stainless steel axle nuts riveted for total security tuned springs resist `walking with optimum trigger pressure stainless steel axle termination swaged to wire rope with 45 ton pressure 7x7 stainless steel wire rope flexible and corrosion resistant stainless steel sling termination swaged to wire rope with 45 ton pressure >8 impact modified temperature tolerant nylon stem frame provides directional control and rigidity impact modified nylon trigger `floats to minimise interference from rope or rock >2 >3 >4 >5 >9 >10 flexible and light weight 7x7 stainless steel trigger wires connect trigger to cams >11 aluminium swage connects trigger wire to rigid l wire >12 stainless steel l wire controls the cams and is recessed into the cam providing a snag free profile to the cam head >6 >7 bottom right detail of technical friends cnc

forged friends the original cam forged friends have evolved directly from ray jardine s visionary design which revolutionised the climbing world back in 1978 despite their new colour coded cams dyneematm slings cam stops and forged stems you might wonder why rigid stems continue to be made alongside flexible stem units the answer is fourfold price weight precision and durability undoubtedly a flexible stem can be placed in horizontal cracks without worry but with a little preparation see gunk s tie-off fig e page 27 forged friends provide safe horizontal crack protection even in the smaller sizes experienced users of rigid stem friends have also realised that the bigger sizes don t need a tie off at all as burying the stem in a horizontal deep placement puts little strain on a forged stem only exposing the very end to the force of the fall see figure a page 27 another endearing feature of forged friends is the control provided by a rigid stem ensuring precise placement and easier

dynamics a horizontal placement as a general principal you should avoid horizontal placements where the stem is loaded over an edge however the deeper the forged friend is placed see fig a the safer the placement will be if you have no alternative no absolutes on safety can be given when placing forged friends in horizontal placements and the safest practice is to always use a gunk s tie off see fig d but with experience you will be able to judge how vulnerable a horizontal placement is should you have to use one in extremis b warning to avoid deformation or possible failure forged stem friends should be never loaded as in figure b however it is possible to tie dyneematm cord minimum 5.5mm diameter into the hole near the cam head and use this to attach the rope see fig d c warning the strength of friends placed in the vertical shallow bottoming cracks where it is impossible to align the stem in the direction of the anticipated load will be seriously compromised see fig c a rigid

specification strengths weights and dimensions zeros ce approved to en12276 uiaa approved to 125 3 rated nominal size z1 z2 z3 z4 z5 z6 colour code purple green silver gold blue red expansion mm inch 5.5-7.8 0.22-0.31 7.0-9.8 0.28-0.39 8.5-12.2 0.33-0.48 10.3-16.0 0.41-0.63 13.0-19.0 0.51-0.75 17.0-24.0 0.67-0.94 weight gm oz 23 0.81 29 1.02 43 1.51 50 1.94 57 2.01 61 2.15 strength cam stop kn strength kn 3 4 6 6 9 9 3 4 6 6 9 9 progression equipment patent pending all sizes feature passive strength cam stops all weights include dedicated colour coded dyneematm sling technical friends ce approved to en12276 uiaa approved to 125 3 rated nominal size 00 0 0.5 1.0 1.25 1.5 1.75 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 5.0 6.0 colour code gold blue red gold purple silver green red gold purple blue silver red green expansion mm inch 10­16 0.40­0.63 13­19 0.51­0.75 17­24 0.67­0.94 19­29 0.75­1.14 21­33 0.83­1.30 23­35 0.90­1.40 25­41 0.98­1.61 29­44 1.14­1.73 33­55

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